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When assembling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate well-known award-winning venues. But, tucked high among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

The compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the proprietors completely shocked.

“I am totally shocked,” remarks a proprietor, pointing to his family’s dedication that culminated in their small shop achieving such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the food, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, toastier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can run into many times that price.

A Ethos of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo outside its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this culinary achievement.